Cava Baja on a Sunday

Cava Baja runs for about four hundred metres and contains more bars than most towns. On a Sunday after the Rastro it becomes a single slow-moving crowd going from one to the next, drinking vermut on tap and eating one thing at each stop, which is the correct way to use it.

The rule is movement. Nobody sits down for three hours here. One drink, one plate, then out and onto the next door — and if a bar has a free table at two o'clock on a Sunday, there is usually a reason.